Collioure, just before the Spanish border, aims its charms at its own people. It's the ideal small town-without-the-glitz antidote to condo city Riviera. Like an ice cream shop, Collioure offers 31 flavors of pastel houses and six petite scooped-out beach-sprinkled lightly with beachgoers. This sweet scene, capped by Collioure's winking lighthouse, sits under a once-mighty castle in the shade of the Pyrenees. The ambience of Collioure is what was so charming about the Cote d'Azur back before the introduction of the paid vacation turned the Riviera into France's holiday beach.