If it wasn't for Paris, Ghent would be medieval Europe's largest city. Steeped in history both rebellious and industrious, it sits at the junction of the Leie and Scheldt rivers and was once the site of armed battles by its townsfolk, who raged against heavy taxes and restricted civil liberties. Ghent is grey and somewhat begrimed — not picturesque like Bruges, but ultimately more realistic. Like Bruges, the town has a belfort well worth climbing and, at the Sint-Baafskathedral, a must-see masterpiece by Jan van Eyck - Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.